DescriptionThis video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the valve gasket set on a Briggs & Stratton small engine. The most common reason for replacing this part is if the gaskets are worn or leaking.
All of the information in this video is applicable to the following brands: Briggs & Stratton
Step-By-Step Instructions1
To replace the valve gasket set components on this briggs and stratton engine…
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… you will need a 7mm socket, a 7mm wrench, a 10mm socket with an extension and a 3/8th inch universal joint adapter, a 5/8th inch wrench, a 5/8th inch spark plug wrench, a 5/32nd inch allen wrench, a
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Before you begin this procedure, make sure the engine and muffler have cooled.
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Using the 7mm socket, unthread the four mounting screws securing the guard to the muffler.
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Use the 10mm socket with an extension to unthread the rear screw securing the guard’s mounting strap to the bracket.
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… and detach the breather tube from the rocker cover.
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Now use the 10mm socket to unthread the four mounting screws securing the rocker cover to the cylinder head.
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You will need to use the 3/8th inch universal joint adapter to unthread the top screw.
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With the four screws unthreaded, you can detach the cover.
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Remove the old rocker cover gasket.
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Next, detach the spark plug wire and boot from the spark plug.
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Use the 5/8th inch spark plug wrench to help loosen the spark plug then unthread it.
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Confirm the engine piston is in the “up” position, known as the “top dead center”, then lower the piston slightly, making sure both rocker arms stay loose.
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Use the 5/8th inch wrench to secure the intake rocker arm adjuster nut and the 5/32nd inch allen wrench to loosen the set screw.
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With the set screw loosened, fully remove the nut and the rocker arm.
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Slide out the push rod.
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Now repeat to remove the exhaust valve rocker arm and push rod.
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Use the 10mm socket to unthread the two screws securing the muffler to the cylinder head.
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Next, use the 5/16th inch nut driver to unthread the two mounting screws securing the air filter cover.
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Remove the cover and the air filter…
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…then unthread the screws securing the filter base.
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Pull the choke lever off so you can fully remove the base.
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Using the t-30 torx bit, unthread the two mounting screws securing the carburetor, spacer, and gaskets to the cylinder head.
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Now use the 7mm wrench to unthread the screw securing the cylinder head shield.
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Fully detach the shield.
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Unthread the four mounting screws securing the cylinder head using the 10mm socket.
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Set the cylinder head on a towel.
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Remove the intake valve cap then push the spring retainer to the side to release.
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Depress the valve stem to remove the intake valve.
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You can now use the needle-nose pliers to pull out the old intake valve seal.
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You’re now ready to begin installing the new valve gasket kit components.
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Use the needle-nose pliers to position the new intake valve seal in the cylinder head…
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… then you can use the 7/16th inch socket to fully seat it.
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Now apply some valve lapping compound to the edge of the intake valve.
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Insert the valve stem into the cylinder head.
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Use the valve grinding tool to rotate the valve back-and-forth for approximately ten seconds…
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… then remove the valve.
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Clean any residue from the valve and cylinder head.
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Apply some lubrication to the valve stem…
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… then reinsert the valve.
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Confirm the valve spring washer is in place with the washer edge facing upward… then slide the spring over the stem so it is seated in the washer.
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Slide on the retainer then snap it into place to secure.
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Replace both valve caps on the valve stems.
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Clean off any residue from the crankcase.
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Next, align the appropriate new cylinder head gasket on the mounting pins.
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Reposition the cylinder head on the crankcase and thread the four mounting screws in a diagonal order.
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Using the 10mm socket on the torque wrench, torque the four screws to 220 inch pounds.
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Confirm the valve caps are in place on the valve stems.
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We recommend you examine the push rods to see if either one is bent and replace one or both rods with new ones if necessary.
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Insert both push rods through the guide until they are fully seated in the cylinder head.
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Realign the exhaust valve rocker arm.
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Partially thread the adjuster nut.
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Repeat to install the intake valve rocker arm and nut.
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Now use the feeler gauge to set the appropriate gap between both rocker arms and their respective valve caps – the intake rocker arm gap should be between .004 and .006 thousandths of an inch…
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… the exhaust rocker arm gap should be between .009 and .011 thousandths of an inch.
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Tighten both rocker arm adjuster set screws then recheck the gaps.
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Reposition the cylinder head shield.
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Thread and tighten the side screw to secure the shield.
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Align one of the new carburetor gaskets behind the spacer and position both on the cylinder head.
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Reinsert the two mounting screws through the carburetor and slide the second new gasket onto the screws.
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Position the carburetor and thread the screws into the cylinder head.
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Confirm the gasket is intact then reposition the muffler and thread the two mounting screws to secure.
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Reinstall the rocker cover by inserting the top mounting screw then slide the new rocker cover gasket over the screw.
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Align the cover and gasket on the cylinder head and thread the screw.
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Replace the remaining screws to fully secure the cover.
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The longer screw goes on the bottom.
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Keeping the breather tube inserted in the air filter base, insert the tube into the hole in the rocker cover.
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Reinstall the muffler guard by positioning it over the muffler…
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… then thread the screw to secure the strap to the bracket.
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Thread the four front mounting screws to secure the guard to the muffler.
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Next, use the 5/16th inch nut driver to unthread the two screws securing the throttle cover plate.
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Shift the throttle lever to the right so you can detach the plate.
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You can now unthread the three screws securing the blower housing using the 10mm socket.
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Set the blower housing aside.
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Confirm the engine piston is in the “down” position…
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… then insert a cord into the cylinder to prevent the piston from moving.
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You can now use the 15/16th inch socket and a mallet to loosen the flywheel mounting nut.
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Fully unthread the nut and remove the starter cup and fan.
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Your next step is to use the dedicated flywheel puller to detach the flywheel.
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Partially rethread the mounting nut on the engine shaft.
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Position the flywheel puller and thread the bolts into the flywheel.
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Use the half-wrench to help tighten.
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Next, thread the rear nuts so they’re flush against the flywheel.
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Now tighten the front nuts until the flywheel becomes detached.
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Unthread the nut and slide off the flywheel.
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Use the 5.5mm socket to unthread the six screws securing the breather passage cover to the crankcase.
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With the screws unthreaded, detach the cover – be prepared for some oil to spill.
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If still intact, peel off the old breather passage gasket.
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Now clean off any residue from the cover…
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… and any oil from the crankcase.
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Insert a screw through the cover… then align the new breather passage gasket.
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Reposition the cover and thread the screw.
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Rethread the five remaining screws to fully secure.
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Before you reinstall the flywheel…
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… confirm the flywheel key is detached from the engine shaft.
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Reposition the flywheel on the shaft…
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… then insert the flywheel key.
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Align the fan and the starter cup…
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… then thread and tighten the nut.
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Using the 15/16th inch socket on the torque wrench, torque the nut to sixty foot pounds.
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Remove the cord from the cylinder…
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… and rethread the spark plug.
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Be careful not to damage the threads by overtightening.
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Reattach the wire and boot to the spark plug.
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Now reposition the blower housing…
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… and rethread the three mounting screws.
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Reposition the throttle cover plate…
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… and rethread the screws.
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Insert the two mounting screws through the air filter base…
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… then align the base and thread the screws into the carburetor.
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Replace the choke lever.
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With the pre- cleaner positioned in the cover followed by the air filter with its rubber gasket facing outward…
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… align the cover on the base…
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… and secure it with the screws.
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The engine should now be ready for use.